Monday, October 25, 2010

Classification and structure of adhesive shoes

 Adhesive shoes: natural materials such as leather shoes and leather uppers, made from the general process to adhesive wear leather shoes. Uppers of leather shoes to help surface material by the material through the program, approved skin, do package, car package processed into shoes and bags, and then after Jiabao, and other complex forming process at the end of the shoe last shape to complete the entire adhesive skin the production of shoes. -

One category -

1, to wear the season to points: one shoes (casual shoes), sandals, shoes -

2, to object points wear shoes: adult men's shoes, adult shoes, children shoes, baby shoes, old shoes -

3, in order to function: civil shoes, military shoes, shoes, protective shoes and art shoes, shoes, medical correction -

4, special footwear: insulated shoes, high temperature resistant shoes, oil resistant shoes, water line of shoes, high shoes, breathable shoes -

II shoes Structure -

(a) upper: other than the soles of shoes than some. It is to help surface and help in, plus reinforced lining and other supporting material composition. -

1, Upper: including the former, mid, post help, shoes, mainly in the upper surface of worth. It has attracted regular customers, so the market momentum. -

2, gang: refers to the inside upper, including former gang, the gang after gang, insoles, shoes, even though it's at the cavity, but it has the technical requirements can not be ignored. The gang must have moisture, wear, support, anti-music and other conditions, where the exposure of the Department and pay attention to appearance. -

3, Accessories: lining, interlining and accessories to enhance. -

(II) shoes: from the main parts, supporting parts, connecting parts of three parts. -

Main parts: the end of the outsole, midsole, heel -

support pieces: the main with, in Baotou, hook heart -

Center parts: along the bar, wire rod, the bottom with screws -

1, in the end: at the bottom, in contact with the soles of shoes called the end, the first half to make Flexing and sweat by the erosion, the latter half is at the overhead location, affordability is not weaker than before the half, to be hard. To directly support the human body, and make shoes Buzhi Yu deformation, which is the basis of shoes, is an important component. -

2, outer sole: soles in contact with the ground, also known as the outsole. From the flank before, said before the palm, the back-end, said after the palm, it ground to withstand the impact of different environments, friction, not only to protect the bottom of shoes, but also to cushion the body. -

3, the header: set off to help in the toe between the surface and the gang, to play a supportive setting, the role of maintaining such beautiful shoe, part of the labor insurance shoes in Baotou, the system also need to use metal as to prevent the weight of the toe injury accident. -

4, the main with: set off to help in the post between the surface and in the uppers with a hard liner, said the Lord. It is the support, shaping and maintenance after the shoe to help control the soles of the feet do not indulge in shoes cavity. -

5, hook the heart: the heart, also known as rebar hook, positioning the back-end has a fixed hole, front-end thin, slightly curved shape. Heart device hook shoes flank region,Bailey UGG boots, which play a supportive role, the human body can withstand the pressure, maintaining foot, keeping the product is not deformed. -

6, in the end: the end and the hook in the heart of the portfolio. -

II shoe -

shoes: is the number and type of shoes. It is too fat, shoe size and a sign to sign indicates the length of the shoes, said shoes too fat to type. Chinese shoe is the actual length of the foot, based on the number of millimeters to feet long how many millimeters size shoes to wear, and within a shoe, a few too fat type, consumers can know the length of the foot and too fat, degree of no matter where you buy any style and material structure of the shoe, are the same shoe, so China is also known as the common shoe. -

Shoe generally hit the obvious location, such as the cup, tongue Lippi, the sandals to play on the strip Lippi. -

1, No. -

number of Chinese shoes in millimeters for the unit to ten millimeters to a shoe, 5 mm for the half of the shoe. Shoe that person's foot length, foot how long, how many numbers there are, for example: foot length of 250 mm, the shoe is 250 mm -

number referred to: code, the conversion relationship is : numbers = code * 10 +100 / 2 mm -

such as: 41 yards, the corresponding numbers are: 41 * 10 +100 / 2 = 255 mm, the 250 number. -

Common shoe size conversion table -

-

M: F: 36 yards, Male: 40 yards -

3 , type: -

refers to the level of the foot too fat and feet, is a measurement of the size of the lateral foot. To a greater extent to meet the needs of a variety of foot wearing the Chinese shoe points in terms of fat and lean type a type, a semi, II, II and a half, until the five types of three types, each type of contraction coefficient of expansion unified 7mm, half type is 3.5mm. -

The data range for adult shoes :215-245mm; adult men's :235-275mm -

4, foot difference -

people foot due to gender, region, occupation, age difference and change. -

Example: the average man in Xinjiang leg length 256.35mm, ranking first in the provinces; and the average man in Guangdong Province is length: 243.87mm, the smallest in the provinces, a difference of 7.48mm. The average woman in Jiangsu Province foot length 234.96mm, the longest in the provinces, and Guizhou Province, the average leg length of women 230.02mm, the shortest in the provinces, a difference of 4.94mm. -

Chapter shoe knowledge -

upper shoe materials including materials and sole materials. -

Section upper material -

materials can be divided into shoe uppers of natural leather, synthetic leather (artificial leather), three categories of textile fabrics, synthetic leather is mainly used in pattern than more women sandals, and retro fabrics as the main raw material is also popular in the market, in production, most of the material is natural leather shoes, so we highlight the natural leather shoes. -

Natural leather shoes are taken off from the animals, and by the leather processing technology, the so-called reform, not necessarily refer to the dermis, such as PU synthetic leather, leather hides concept is in terms of relative It refers only to the material can be used for shoes only. -

Natural leather shoes because of their different sources and processing technology, a wide range of leather bound, we described mainly from two aspects, including the detailed classification and the corresponding features. -

One, according to sources points -

natural leather shoes by source -

(a) of the leather: pores small, fine grain, the thickness more uniform, poor parts of the small, high utilization. -

1, yellow leather -

better the physical properties of yellow leather, such as the expansion strength, smaller departments and potential difference, the thickness is relatively uniform, so the utilization of large, compound to be used in all the skin the most. -

2, buffalo -

Zhang large, relatively heavy, poor flexibility, strength far and yellow leather. -

Thick buffalo skin waxing. Surface feel rough, and when waxing the skin is dark, the water easily fade. -

3, tire leather -

fetal calf leather from birth soon, so little and Zhang, skin soft, thin, lower intensity level than the average cow. Grain thin and shiny, like new-born baby's skin feel like a very fine, the shoes were made of grade, wearing a very comfortable, pleasant, but easy bruising, high requirements of processing technology. -

(B) of the sheep's clothing: thin, low intensity, the pores are thick, curved distribution. -

(C) pig skin: pores with a group of three, was for men and sandals. -

(D) of wild animal skins: patterns unique, distinctive style. Generally deerskin, alligator skin, fish leather, snake skin, ostrich skin, pearl skin, kangaroo leather. -

Two categories by processing technology -

1, full-grain leather: leather grain layer with a positive one for leather, leather surface detail, smooth, color bright charm, can show the natural grain pattern layer. -

2, shaving leather: a coarse grain, the disabled too, too low utilization by the rubbed grain leather, and then the surface coating made of leather. -

3, Embossed leather: The leather grain finish, and then press out a variety of patterns, to overcome the grain surface defects, the leather is more beautiful. In addition, other man-made patterns also fall into this category. Usually cattle, pig skin as a substrate. - 4, patent leather: The leather surface coating resin to form a coating similar to paint, bright, smooth, bright. Commonly referred to as pearl skin, wrinkled patent leather, wrinkled leather of this type are, for example, used in our production line of Approved paint colors full, colorful, high utilization is the best material for high fashion women's shoes. -

5, split leather: large leather is thick, and uneven thickness of each part needs to be split in the horizontal direction in order to be consistent with the requirements of the first layer of grain shoe leather, but also by a by-product of the split leather, split leather, including common split leather, leather industry in the developed Western countries, technology and even split up to seven, split the country is still only reach five. Such reforms without materials surface, the strength and water resistance, are not and general leather. -

6,UGG boots, Suede: commonly known as good material shoes. There are suede suede suede and anti-divided, are suede is to scrub the surface of the skin pile, put the flesh swelling anti-suede sand pile. -

7, oil reform: in the process of adding more oil leather, smooth, more wear-resistant, folding, and more safety shoes used in the manufacture or export of cotton-padded shoes. -

8, soft leather: the tanning process, to throw soft leather, leather to leather body is more flexible than the average, are doing casual female cotton-padded shoes and the best material. -

9, wrinkle leather: If milled leather, natural leather surface wrinkles, so as a special texture. -

10, braided leather: The leather bands made of a certain width, and textiles into a variety of patterns, which is a common skin woven flowers. The variety of patterns, such as the cross, w words, Tic Tac Toe and so on. -

Third, the identification of genuine leather -

synthetic leather, shoe leather often as singles (PU leather), women sandal face, leather, because of its colorful, more variety, so many in the fashion shoes in use. The following method can distinguish natural leather and synthetic leather: -

1, the surface without disability, even texture, pattern is also very uniform, without any defects may be synthetic leather; there should be a natural leather texture differences, particularly outside the shoes back, head and tongue to help major and minor parts should be some differences between sites. -

2, carefully observe the distribution and shape of pores, natural leather, easy to bottom out the pores and deep, slightly inclined, vertical pores may be superficial and appears to be synthetic leather (leather may also be shaved.) -

3, from the cross section observation, the opposite of a layer of synthetic leather rendered as plastic or cloth, and wool fibers, compared with natural leather. -

4, with water to clean, easy to absorb water is the natural leather, on the contrary, it is synthetic leather. -

5, with the fire, a plastic paste flavor for synthetic leather, for there pills only to discover the natural leather. -

II shoe substrate -

one, leather soles -

general use pig skin, made of leather, which is usually characterized by the appearance of yellow, reddish brown, the surface smooth, visible pores, no color. After the smell of burning tobacco. -

End leather for shoes, leather comfort, light plays a very important role on the other hand, leather soles and good ventilation, so in some made of all leather footwear market, you can see the shoe leather in those high-quality classical and casual style is still very popular brand-name products, leather sole shoes has become an upscale name signs. -

But the traditional leather shoe materials, like leather than leather is widely used. A variety of reasons: -

a) does not wear, but also very easy to slip on some of the ground; -

b) after the heat damage, so the wear environment also affected by some degree of restriction; -

c) high cost, and restricted to high-end shoes; -

d) is not the sole leather shoes are suitable for all , generally used for high-end men's shoes. -

Two classes of non-leather soles -

1, Leather Bottom: a typical rubber and materials used. Appearance similar to natural leather bottom, there are grain pattern, and its products made from lightweight, clear lines. -

2, rubber sole: soles than other heavy weight, like bitter taste, color black, wear resistance than polyurethane, folding performance is good. -

3, rubber foam: light weight rubber sole, a rubber smell, time with your fingers, sole significantly than the surface of a rebound, poor wear resistance. -

4, polyurethane bottom: PU sole, wear, slip resistance are excellent, and strong and tough, light oil, but if the long-term wear in wet conditions, the performance will be limited, as high-grade shoes. -

5, plastic sole: PVC soles, low price, light weight, flexibility, and not broken, but the slip is not effective. -

6, SBS outsole: thermoplastic rubber SBS, at room temperature performance of rubber at high temperatures, but also has plastic properties, ease of processing molding; light weight, flexible, colorful. Wet skid resistance, permeability, and no smelly feet, wear does not crack, is to create all kinds of high quality leather shoes sole material middle and low. -

Common quality problems in the third chapter of shoes -

one off the bottom -

Reason: -

1, for class hard soles, in the low temperature case, the folding performance degradation, prone to break at the end situation. -

2, the sole standard for tear resistance is not good, consumers wear, the shoes appear on the first cut, stabbed in the formation of a small mouth, low performance if the tear will rapidly National Cheng Kung University area of the crack to expand, resulting in leakage, rupture. -

3, consumers in special circumstances (Geological Survey, oil, chemicals, etc.) wear, the soles of the performance will also change, to cause fracture. -

Solution: According to the soles of the broken end of the situation. Generally mild or can fix the broken end, such as meeting with the film adhesive; seriously off the bottom, if conditions permit, it can re on the bottom, or only void. -

The second, breaking along the strip -

causes -

1, along the section of the main components of PVC, PVC plastic sensitive to temperature and the colder , it is increasingly hard to lose flexibility, so that along the bar hard, brittle, easily broken. -

2, in use by the role of light and heat, causing degradation of performance gradually deteriorated, leading to brittle fracture. -

Solution: Generally mild along the bar will not break the direct result of using quality, affects only the appearance. Serious off along the bar to the bottom on the need to, or scrapped. -

Three, out with, out of dough -

causes -

1, loaded with not solid, combined with the surface, such as the Ministry of mishandling. -

2, with the surface and the heel of convergence was not strong. -

3, Rocker degree of inaccuracy, the road uneven. -

4, the operator installed with improper technique, or forget to install with nails. -

5, has a direct relationship between the user properly. -

Workaround: There is out now, out of touch dough can generally be repaired, but must have their materials, such as Michigan, touch dough, put follow the nails, tools. People who know shoes can generally be repaired. -

Four,UGG boots cheap, split with -

causes -

1, the heel of the main material for the ABS, the proportion of materials (such as: rubber, benzene, etc.) No deployment is good, can cause heel reduces the strength directly affects the wear. -

2, the operator did not meet the requirements process. -

3, when worn in contact with organic consumers, or in the sun exposure, can cause stress cracking occurs ABS, with the occurrence of crack. -

Solution: if material, can be repaired. -

V. skinned fade -

Reason: -

1, tanning process, dye and leather combination is not solid, not reached fixation effects, easy to bleaching, resulting in a lot of paint floating on the surface of leather, the occurrence of fading. -

2, some of the wearer of the shoe care properly, not properly marked with shoe polish, even scrubbing the upper water, may cause fading leather. -

Solution: - According to the characteristics and performance of leather, take appropriate approach in this area requires knowledge of personnel involved in the guidance of professional tanning in order to better address. -

VI Diaoqi -

Reason: -

1, the leather surface of the coating is too thick, low adhesion, easy to cause coating Diaoqi. -

2, in the process of coating wear weathered the impact of the outside of brittle fracture, the formation of Diaoqi. -

3, post-processing in the leather production process, process handling, quality paints, chemicals with the same result Diaoqi unscientific. -

Solution: -

analysis according to the actual situation Diaoqi reasons, then take solution, if the conditions, then he can fix it. -

Seven, degumming, open plastic -

Reason: -

possible problems in the process, but also may be caused by the wearer. -

1, uneven sand pile. -

2, gluing uneven. -

3, wear the standard by the super-strong adhesive force caused by collision. -

4, when the heat caused by heating parts wear a plastic. -

Judgement Method: -

judge those responsible for generating inspection from an analysis of physical traces, such as a hot shoe on the mark, there are upper traces are the wearer of the To, if the soles are branded injured, collision damage and chips, close to the bottom of the upper parts of a flawed, may be affected by the wearer by force, if you exclude the wearer of the doubt was caused by the hidden production operations to deal with disease resolved. -

Solution: -

general, can be repaired, after dealing with a clean dry rub at the stain to make a plastic,UGG bailey button, and then use the adhesive on the shoe-making process requirements. -

Eight, shoes, mouth fault -

Reason: shoes, shoes, mouth means the mouth break, lock lines, anti-gang, tongue and other tongue-type shoes, broken cross arm, broken skin. -

Solution: analysis of causes of the fault can be repaired usually mild, such as by adhesive or by sewing machine sewing and good shoes, according to the quality of the reasons given solution. -

Nine, off to help the foot -

Reason: -

1, the bursting strength of leather did not meet the requirements. -

2, in the production operation, when the sanding wheel to play too deep, due to process operation. -

3, last type of unreasonable, and the consumer does not match the foot, due to improper use of serious damage to the uppers and other factors, will cause the foot to help break. -

Solution: In case of broken legs to help with mild to rework. -

Ten, section -

section there are two cases, corrosive section, brittle section. -

Reason: -

1, corrosiveness sections: leather fibrous tissue damage. In the shoe of the operation, the use of chemical treatment agent corrosion caused by chemicals. -

2, brittle sections: leather grain layer of hard board, no elasticity. The cortex itself or due to temperature, the fiber is damaged, or some repetitive action that leather loses its elasticity, will cause this section. -

3, where the dry and cold wear, such as not pay attention to protect the shoes, not shoe oil, the most vulnerable sections. -

Solution: a little -

XI, airtight -

Reason: -

1, leather and lining gluing between thick, rubber packing, leather caused by blocked pores and reduce permeability; -

2, if you use leather or synthetic leather made Lippi, may also cause nausea feet. -

3, poor ventilation in the floor, no moisture absorption. -

Solution: Use good ventilation pad can enhance the drug permeability. -

Second, main with, Baotou stay -

Reason: -

1, the main with, the flexibility of the materials used Baotou bad. -

2, the process of gluing in the operation too much, and the material loses its elasticity. -

3, the operator did not put away the Lord with according to process requirements, Baotou, in the amount of the end of the lap too. -

4, the wearer wearing improper squeeze hard objects or other factors are likely to follow the Lord, Baotou stay. 

Fourth, upper open line, open help 

Reason:

possible problems in the process, but also may be worn are caused.

1, edge crop of films is too thin skin award, reducing the tensile strength. 

2, fold margin is too small. 

3, all twisted and turned seam jumper. 

4, then at the set with the wrong glue, or sticky Debu firm. 

Solution: mild to open help, technicians can fix, such as adhesive, or seam line is good, seriously, can not be repaired.

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